Where to base yourself
- Donegal town: the handiest base for the south — Slieve League, Glencolmcille, the surf at Rossnowlagh — and an easy stop on a Sligo-to-Derry route.
- Ardara and Glencolmcille: small, traditional and closer to the cliffs; Ardara is the tweed village.
- Letterkenny: the county’s largest town, with the most hotels; central for Glenveagh, Fanad and Inishowen.
- Dunfanaghy: a pretty village on Sheephaven Bay, good for beaches, Horn Head and Glenveagh.
- Bundoran: Ireland’s surf capital, in the far south of the county.
Food, drink and music
Killybegs is Ireland’s largest fishing port, so seafood is excellent and fairly priced — chowder, crab, oysters and mussels. Donegal has its own fiddle style, fast and driving, with Scottish influence; hear it in pubs such as Leo’s Tavern in Crolly, the Beehive in Ardara or the Reel Inn in Donegal town. Hotels often provide the best dining in smaller places; book dinner when you book your room.
Saving money
- Nearly everything worth seeing is free: cliffs, beaches, the national park, Malin Head, Grianán of Aileach.
- Accommodation and meals cost noticeably less than in Kerry or Galway.
- The Heritage Card covers Donegal Castle and Glebe House.
- If you cross to Derry, remember that prices there are in sterling.
Safety and practicalities
- Slieve League and Errigal are serious ground in poor weather. Stay behind barriers at Bunglass, and turn back if cloud comes down.
- Many beaches have no lifeguards and strong rip currents; ask locally before swimming. Bundoran and Rossnowlagh have lifeguards in summer.
- Mobile coverage is patchy in the west and phones may roam onto UK networks near the border. Download maps.
- ATMs are found only in the larger towns. Bring a waterproof and warm layers in every season — this is the windiest, coolest corner of the country.
Sample plans
One day
Donegal town and castle in the morning; drive via Killybegs to Slieve League for the afternoon; return by the Glengesh Pass and Ardara if the light lasts.
Two days
Add the north: Letterkenny, Glenveagh National Park and castle, then round under Errigal to Dunlewey and Gweedore, or north to Dunfanaghy.
Three days
Fanad Head and Portsalon beach, then across to Inishowen for Grianán of Aileach and Malin Head, finishing in Derry or on the ferry to the Causeway Coast.
