Where to base yourself
- Kilkenny old city: between the castle and the cathedral, with everything on foot. Ask for a room away from the street at weekends.
- John Street and the east bank: near the station, with late bars — lively rather than quiet.
- Country-house hotels outside the city suit drivers who want calm and parking.
- Waterford: a good second base for the south-east coast and the Greenway.
Food, drink and crafts
Kilkenny eats well for its size, from cafés in the castle yard to ambitious restaurants. It has been a brewing town since the Middle Ages: Smithwick’s red ale began here, and craft breweries have followed. Pubs to look for include Kyteler’s Inn, the Hole in the Wall, Tynan’s Bridge House and Cleere’s, which has traditional music. For crafts, start at the Design Centre and the National Design & Craft Gallery opposite the castle; potters and glassmakers work in villages such as Bennettsbridge and Thomastown nearby.
Saving money
- The Heritage Card pays for itself quickly here: Kilkenny Castle, the Rock of Cashel, Cahir Castle, Glendalough visitor centre, Jerpoint Abbey and Brú na Bóinne are all OPW sites.
- Many OPW sites have offered free admission on the first Wednesday of the month — check whether this still applies.
- The castle park, Glendalough valley and the Wicklow Mountains are free.
- Midweek hotel rates in Kilkenny are well below weekend rates.
Practicalities
Kilkenny is safe and friendly, if boisterous on Saturday nights, when it is popular for hen and stag parties. On hurling match days the city turns black and amber. At Glendalough and in the Wicklow hills, stay on marked trails and carry waterproofs; do not leave valuables in cars at trailhead car parks.
Sample plans
One day
Kilkenny Castle at opening time; walk the Medieval Mile with stops at the museum and Rothe House; climb St Canice’s round tower; the Smithwick’s Experience; evening in the pubs.
Two days
Add a half-day at the Rock of Cashel, returning via Kells Priory or Jerpoint Abbey — or spend the day in Waterford’s Viking Triangle.
Three days
Arrive from Dublin via the Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough; day two in Kilkenny; day three on to Cashel and the south-west.
